The Gateway to Magnificence (1) - Air Milford to Milford Sound

After the NAC proving flight into Milford Sound some flightseeing flights were operated into Milford Sound from Hokitika and Haast by NAC and later West Coast Airways which was a subsidiary of Southern Scenic Air Services... But it was Southern Scenic Airways who pioneering the scenic flights from Queenstown to Milford Sound that made it the aviation destination it is today... it is no wonder Southern Scenic branded their flights to Milford Sound as the gateway to magnificence.

Like the Dominies of old we took the lower route to Milford Sound

On the 10th of July 2026, 70 years to the day after the proving flight that licenced Milford Sound aerodrome I had the awesome privilege to fly into Milford Sound on a commemorative flight to mark the event with Antony Sproull in Air Milford's Cessna Caravan ZK-SKB with Antony flying Southern Scenic's Air Services' Gateway to Magnificence flight path...

My ride to Milford Sound, Air Milford's Cessna Caravan ZK-SKB

A much busier Queenstown airport than in 1956. In 1956 Queenstown's only air service was to Dunedin. It had started in 1950 operated by single-engined Percival Proctors and later twin-engined Airspeed Ansons.

Our departure took us down the Frankton Arm

Cecil Park and the south arm of Lake Wakatipu

Looking south

Looking west

Flying by the ridge lines

Lake Dispute with Lake Wakatipu beyond

A photo across the aisle out of the right hand window... Crossing the top end of Lake Wakatipu - from left, the Dart River/Te Awa Whakatipu, Mt Alfred, the Rees River and Glenorchy

And looking down Lake Wakatipu from the left hand side

Tooth Peak

The Greenstone River Valley...

The Eglinton River Valley

The Eglinton River Valley with fog over Lake Te Anau in the distance

U Pass looking down towards Glade House and a fog-bound Lake Te Anau

Again, through the right hand window, a very chilly looking Lake Erskine

McKinnon Pass on the Milford Track

McKinnon Pass looking down the Clinton River Valley... do you see the shelter just above the left hand tarn?

Here's a cropped image

THIS IS NOT MY PHOTO - But I wanted to show a better perspective of where we flew next... above Lake Quill and the Sutherland Falls

Lake Quill - which sits above the Sutherland Falls. The lake is about about 1km across and our flight had us circling within the lake area and then doing a figure 8 so the people on the other side could see

Magnificent reflections... Lake Quill is 979 metres above sea level... 

This little tarn above Lake Quill is at 1325 metres above sea level

A perfectly focussed photo the plane's strut... and a blurred photo of Lake Quill's outlet over the Sutherland falls to the right of the strut

Steep mountain sides around us... Antony's airmanship was amazing...

The little waterfall coming down from the tarn above to Lake Quill at the bottom

Out over the outlet

And the Sutherland Falls, cascading down 580 metres is the tallest waterfall in New Zealand. The water falls in three cascades: the upper is 229 m tall, the middle is 248 m, and the lower is 103 m tall.

Through the left hand side of the pilot's front window - Lake Ada

Into Milford Sound

Mitre Peak on the left

Lokking up the Cleddau River Valley - the road takes this route. The Homer tunnel, which is not visible, is around the corner to the right at the head of the valley 

Milford Sound airport on its 70th birthday

Turning finals for Milford Sound

Can you see the plane ahead of us on finals

Milford Sound - 70 years on

The 17th of November 1938 was a historic day for aviation at Milford Sound when Southland Airways' Arthur Bradshaw became the first to land an aeroplane there. The Southland Times reported: Mr A. J. Bradshaw landed at the head of Milford Sound in his Puss Moth monoplane at noon today. This is the first landing to take place here. The ground chosen is a sandy beach in a deep-water basin a mile away from the hostel. Mr Bradshaw made a perfect landing in less than 100 yards. On leaving the sounds he flew north and disappeared over the Pembroke Glacier. This also is unprecedented, as aeroplanes previously visiting the sounds have flown out to the coast to gain the necessary height.

Mr Bradshaw, who returned to Invercargill yesterday, said that the beach could be used for landing in cases of emergency, but the Civil Aviation Department would never allow it to be used for ordinary purposes. He landed at Lake Ada, a few miles away, on Tuesday and went by launch, by car and on foot in search of a natural landing ground, but could not find one. A ground could be made, but the cost would probably run into thousands of pounds. Before returning to Invercargill Mr Bradshaw made a landing at Big Bay.

Shortly after Bert Mercer of Air Travel (NZ) landed De Havilland DH83 Fox Moth ZK-ADI at Milford Sound. It seems history did not record the date.

On the 22nd of August 1951 Southern Scenic Air Trips' Popeye Lucas flew an Auster into Milford Sound landing on a comparatively small, but flat, beach at Deepwater Basin, near the Milford Sound hostel. The Press reported that the aeroplane was flown to the sound to see if a landing could be made in the event of an emergency. The aeroplane landed at 8.15 a.m. and took off before the tide began to rise. Only two other landings are known to have been made in this manner in the Milford Sound area. Landings by amphibian aircraft, however, are not uncommon. It brought fresh bread, meat, newspapers, and mail. By the following year an airstrip had been developed and on the 5th of June 1952 Southern Scenic Air Services' Auster Aiglet ZK-AWS, flown by F. J. Lucas carried the first official air mail from Milford Sound to Queenstown. 

But there was always a need for something more. That came in 1956 when the Ministry of Works constructed a new, officially licensed aerodrome at Milford Sound.

On the 10th of July 1956 a proving flight was flown between Haast and Milford Sound to ascertain the suitability of an airstrip at Milford to be used for regular air services. The flight, flown by Captain Frank Molloy in NAC's De Havilland DH89 Dominie ZK-AKY carried officials of the Civil Aviation Administration. The Press of the 13th reported that, the special flight... may herald future tourist traffic to the Milford Sound area by air. The Dominie took three officers of the administration on its flight. The men spent two hours at the Milford aerodrome discussing the possibilities of its use by Dominies, which would fly from Hokitika to Milford by way of Haast. No decision was announced after the inspection but an early announcement is expected. The agent of “The Press” at Hokitika (Mr M. Saunders) gave the pilot of the Dominie (Captain F. Molloy) two copies of “The Press.” The manager of the Milford Hotel who received the papers said it was the first time a city newspaper had been delivered at the hotel on the day of its issue.

NAC De Havilland Dominie ZK-AKY at newly constructed Milford Sound aerodrome. Was this the first flight on the 10th of July 1956??? Photographer unknown

The Evening Post of the 13th of July 1956 reported further on the possible Milford Sound service. Following a successful charter flight, the National Airways Corporation, under a charter from the Tourist and Publicity Department, intends to operate a service from Hokitika and Haast. An NAC Dominie will fly once a week from Haast - in less than an hour - and if the venture is successful another Dominie will be based at Hokitika for additional flights. The flights will operate till further notice. 

It is the 10th of July 1956 flight that licenced the Milford Sound aerodrome that marks the start of commercial services to Milford Sound. 

The first on demand charter service was operated on the 25th of July 1956 from Hokitika to Haast and Milford Sound and return was flown by Captain Frank Molloy in Dominie ZK-AKY. The charter service never appeared in the NAC timetables but it was advertised in national newspapers.

NAC's De Havilland Dominie ZK-AKY at Milford Sound on the first charter flight on 25 July 1956. Photograph : Max Dowell

Evening Post, 11 August 1956

The Press, 23 August 1956

Earlier in 1956 Southern Scenic were preparing to commence Dominie services having purchased the Auckland Aero Club's Dominie ZK-BAU and later in the year two ex-NAC Dominies.

70 years since the licensing of Milford Sound aerodrome on a gathering of past and current pilots and people involved in the Milford Sound flightseeing operation gathered in Air Milford's hangar on the evening on the 9th of July to mark the event. Among those who gathered were two pilots who had flown Dominies into Milford Sound for Ritchie Air Services, Gary Cruickshank and Russell Gutschlag. The event hosted, by Air Milford's Hank and Kerrie Sproull, was an a great opportunity for reminiscing and stories including from Hank Sproull himself, Mike Skudder, a long time Flight Service Officer at Milford Sound, the Queenstown Airport Corporation's CEO Shane O'Hare, and a historical presentation by aviation historian, Rev Dr Richard Waugh. Shane O'Hare made the point 10,000 people will have flown through Queenstown airport that day with 34 jet flights from Australia. Shane also made the point that is wonderful that all the operators flying into Milford Sound were present to celebrate this milestone in history.

Sadly, attempts to bring back De Havilland DH89B Dominie ZK-AKY to fly between Queenstown and Milford Sound were thwarted due to an engine issue. It was, however, a delight to see Colin and Maeva Smith from Croydon Aviation Company at the evening gathering.

ZK-AKY, the Dominie which made the proving flight to  was to see service with three of the Milford Sound pioneer flyers, Ritchie Air Services, which like Southern Scenic Air Services was merged into Tourist Air Travel, which in turn was taken over by Mount Cook Airlines.

Newly arrived from NAC, Dominie ZK-AKY in NAC colours with Ritchie Air Services titles on a publicity shoot. Photographer unknown.

Inherited from Ritchie Air Services, de Havilland DH89B Dominie ZK-AKY at Queenstown

In Mount Cook Airlines colours but without titles, de Havilland DH89B Dominie ZK-AKY at Queenstown in the early 1970s. Photographer unknown

On the actual 70th anniversary of the proving flight, Air Milford in conjunction with the Queenstown Airport Corporation operated a commemorative flight into Milford Sound. Flown by Air Milford's chief pilot Antony Sproull in Air Milford's first Cessna 208 Caravan ZK-SKB passengers included Captain Keith Molloy, son of Captain Frank Molloy who had flown the proving flight 70 years before. Also on board was David Graham an air accident investigator, a fitting nod to the Civil Aviation officials who were on the proving flight.

 

Air Milford's Cessna 208 Caravan ZK-SKB at Queenstown on 10 July 2026

Antony Sproull and Keith Molloy at Milford Sound. The son of the Frank Molloy who made the proving flight Keith said, "It was an amazing celebration of Milford and I was very humbled and genuinely very excited with the whole event."

Keith was carrying the 1943 map his father used 70 years before

From left, self, Allan Pattrick (ex Mount Cook Airlines), Antony Sproull, Keith Molloy, David Graham, and Richard Waugh

Milford Sound's ramp... a little busier than on the day 70 years before

"Happy Birthday Milford Sound Airport - 70 years of commercial services."

Air Milford's Cessna 208 Caravan ZK-SKB at Milford Sound on 10 July 2026. 70 years on the Cessna Caravan is certainly the Dominie replacement in the 2020s with up to 15 sitting on the Milford ramp at any one time!

Flightseeing’s turbulent times

 

Reflecting the world-class scenery they fly in, Milford flightseeing companies have constantly upped their game despite challenges they face from both a fickle environment and seemingly more fickle bureaucrats.

With a function in Queenstown this week celebrating 70 years of Milford flightseeing, it’s amazing to think a proposal to ban it was presented just five years ago.

During the depths of Covid-19 in July, 2021, the Milford Opportunities Project (MOP), commissioned by the last government, launched radical plans to scrap the airfield and ban cruise ship visits.

Those threats were only removed by the current government 13 months ago.

MOP maintained the airstrip was in a poor state, but operators and the wider tourist industry argued flightseeing was not only a visitor drawcard but reduced Milford Rd traffic congestion and was vital if the road was cut off.

The threat was also untimely as operators had spent millions on larger planes — meaning fewer flights — which were also much quieter than their predecessors.

Queenstown-based Milford Sound Scenic Flights owner Mark Quickfall, who also has a chopper fleet, says when the Department of Conservation issued concessions to land in what is a national park, operators committed to upgrading their aircraft.

They also volunteered flight paths "to mitigate the impact on other park users".

Quickfall, who also chairs Destination Milford Sound which was formed to engage with the MOP project as one voice, says it took six years for those concessions to be issued.

Ironically, they also expired six years ago and have only now been reissued.

Veteran local aviator Jules Tapper, who once ran the former Mount Cook Group’s Queenstown flightseeing division, says "the fleet that’s currently flying is probably amongst the most modern in the world".

He says Twin Otters in former times "led the race to get a quieter aeroplane".

Local Air Milford owner Hank Sproull first introduced the revolutionary Cessna Caravan turboprop aircraft in 2005 after securing a $1.25 million loan from UDC.

It carried 12 passengers, double other planes’ capacity, was "very quiet and very safe", and offered good viewing.

"They present a product to tourists that is really, really appealing."

Glenorchy Air chief executive and Queenstown-Milford Users Group chair James Stokes agrees with Tapper "we’ve got a really capable, really impressive fleet among the operators, and I always make the point Glenorchy Air has the most modern out of everybody".

He says closing Milford’s airfield would have made his business unviable.

"I think there was an element of it being so ridiculous and so badly done you either kind of forged on hoping for the best or stopped.

"We chose to kind of keep our recovery plan going, knowing we had valuable assets if it all went wrong."

Like his counterparts, he argues Milford’s airstrip facilities need upgrading.

"[Owner] Ministry of Transport does have a programme to improve things, and having some toilets and potentially a little pilots’ room is part of that.

"Our landing fees have just been put up to pay for some of that upgrading — they’re quite a lot, so we hope we get a return on that."

Stokes notes Queenstown-based light planes are often subject to delays on a busy airfield, partly due to very restrictive airspace rules.

"You can literally have a mountain between you and another operator but because you’re not separated by enough distance, it’s still not legal [to fly]."

He accepts plans for taxiway alongside the main runway will be some help, along with relocating choppers to the north of that runway and light planes to the south.

However, he says, "there’s only so much space in the cookie jar".

Despite modern aircraft allowing more flying days, Milford’s notorious weather still makes flightseeing one of Queenstown’s most weather-dependent tourist attractions.

Due to wetter and windier than normal weather last spring and early summer, Stokes says in the 12 months until early April "we were sitting around a 48% success rate".

Source: Otago Daily Times

Hokitika Airport upgrades

It has been a quiet month for news so far. This was published in the Otago Daily Times over the weekend:

Automated carparking and an enclosure for rare native skinks are among the upgrades in the wings for Hokitika Airport.

Destination Westland Ltd chairman Greg Bishop and chief executive Melanie Anderson last week updated the Westland District Council’s council-controlled organisation oversight committee on the company’s future plans.

Mr Bishop said a rebranding of the company was on the horizon and potentially a new name, to better reflect its aviation role.

Destination Westland has both the Hokitika Airport and the busy Franz Josef Heliport in its portfolio.

The committee was told a priority for the coming year was improving regular passenger transport in and out of the airport.

These included planned upgrades to runway lighting to improve pilots’ ability to land in poorer visibility conditions and improving the customer experience at the airport, starting with reopening the cafe within the terminal building.

Increases to landing fees from Air New Zealand were also forecast.

However, discussions were, at present, on hold.

Mayor Helen Lash said from her own discussions with the airline, those talks and any increases, were some way off and to try now would be ‘‘risky’’.

Mr Bishop confirmed nothing was proposed in the short term.

However, it was important to show there was an expectation from the company.

Unlike other regional airports, Hokitika had maintained all scheduled flights amid Air New Zealand cuts. 

Source: Otago Daily Times